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2006 Argo Avenger with T20
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I've been speaking with Roy at Quality Drive (great guy with tons of knowledge) and finally ordered my CVTs and belt today. Since I'm not making a ton of HP I ended up just going with the 780 series drive clutch and the Invance driven clutch. The Invance should give me the offset that I need. He was going to use some lighter weights for the higher RPM but other than that they will just be the stock clutches. I asked about the Team CVT driven roller clutch but Roy said that they stopped producing them for some reason.
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Mike, If you're in need of some thin isolators, McMaster-Carr or Fastenal should be able to help you out. MaxIVMark did some research on this and found some good ones to use for his Max IV.....much more duranle than the stock Recreatives ones. Maybe even some 1/4" (or whatever amount you need to raise the engine up) aluminum blocks or cylinders would fit the bill.
As far as belts go, there are lots of options. The guys at Buffalo Bearing can get pretty much any size drive belt you need. If you want to see if you can find a production snowmobile belt, try looking here:
Towards the end of the catalog on page 44 there will be the belts listed by length and width. There is also a chart where you can cross reference them with other brands. Hope this helps. Keep up the good work, Mike!
http://www.goodyearrubberproducts.co...nt%20Belts.pdf
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Originally posted by lewis View PostLooks like you have been working hard Mike. Since you have plenty of head room maybe a vibration insulator will give you your height to keep off the adjuster.
Keep up the great work.
Originally posted by micmac View PostHere are the dimensions and Specs for the invance system
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Looks like you have been working hard Mike. Since you have plenty of head room maybe a vibration insulator will give you your height to keep off the adjuster.
Keep up the great work.
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Working only a few miles from 600 Racing, the company that sells Bandolero motors, is too tempting. During lunch two days ago I stopped by and picked up a "cardboard crate" motor. I just pulled it out of it's "crate" tonight:
Here I am doing an eyeball test to see if #60 chain and sprocket will be even close to fitting on the T20 output shaft without rubbing the case:
Finally, tonight I set the Bandolero motor in the Argo to play with the clutch alignment and see how much room I actually have.
The clutch on the T20 in the photos is the old Argo driven clutch which has a larger diameter shaft than the T20 so it is wedged in place for the photos. I compared it to the 780 in my Max and it is just about the same width/offset so I think using it for mockup will work fine.
I found that the stock offset clutch won't work without modifying the tub. Unfortunately, even if I wanted to modify the tub I couldn't due to the placement of the drive clutch in relation to the tires. Where the body needs to be remolded would hit the tires. That's not a big issue though as I was planning on using an offset clutch anyway to help center the motor.
Thanks to Jim for posting his measurements above. That gave me something to compare against. If I use that invance clutch, it should place the belt roughly where I have it in these photos. This belt is obviously too short but it helped align things for measuring:
Really there are only three concerns now that I need to worry about:
1. Will the drive clutch clear the tub.
2. Can I find a belt that is the right length. The motor only has about 1.5" of movement from being as close as I want it to the T20 to being as close as I want it to the front of the tub so I hope I can find one that works. The center to center distance needs to be 14".
3. Can I get the belt to clear the front left chain adjuster (see the last picture below). I think I can raise the motor enough to clear the adjuster and if not I can modify it.
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Mike, Talk to Mark (MaxIVMark). He got a set of Polaris clutches (drive and driven) for his Max 8x8 project. He might be able to point you in the right direction.
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Good question. Marc may know but I never got that far. I assumed I could purchase directly through a Polaris dealer but maybe not? I know that a lot of the SAE guys are using the Polaris clutches on their mini baja projects but I'm not sure if they were purchasing the clutches new or getting them from old machines for parts.
Edit: Also, I was just looking back through some of jerseybigfoot's and MaxIVMark's threads and saw where Marc posted that the Polaris clutch is a 1" bore that has to be sleeved:
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Where do you get the Polaris, and what do they cost? I paid a little more for the Invance through Recreatives...Roy was out of stock, but normally carries them.
And there are other sources. club car big block driven clutch
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Thanks for mentioning that clutch Jim. I remember seeing your photos before but hadn't thought of it since then. When I get my motor in place I will see how much room I need. I spoke with Roy at Quality Drive a week or two ago but need to follow up with him again. He was going to send me some specifications via email on a couple of offset clutches that he recommended too just for comparison.
Edit: After your comment Jim, I started thinking back to previous discussions on the same topic of an offset clutch. I really haven't given that too much thought yet on this project but remembered having the same issue on my Max IV. Looking back Marc also recommended a Polaris clutch which appears to have about the same offest as the Invance:
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Mike, have you looked at the invance secondary's CVTech-IBC - - Poulies menes
You can get one right from Recreatives. It will save a couple inches.Attached Files
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That last post was the last time I even looked at the Argo until earlier today. The holidays took up a week and then my procrastination on what motor to use delayed me even further. I was really at a stand still until I decided on that. I need to go ahead and purchase it so that I can set it in place to make sure I have enough room in front of the T20. I also need to make sure the drive clutch will clear the tub. I hope to pick the motor up this week. I decided to just go with another Bandolero motor. It's tough to beat the price. If it fits fine in front of the T20 then I will probably purchase a reverse cam clutch to help me keep the Motor closer to the center of the frame.
As far as actual work on the Argo, today I pulled out the front four chains and the intermediate shafts. I am going to get Whipper to do a little machine work on them for me to extend the splines. I also determined that the transmission mount should work where it is if I go from the C-channel T20 levers to a piece of flat stock. Last time I posted, I mentioned that I would have to rework the mount to raise the transmission but it looks like I won't have to do that. Finally, I think I am going to try to keep the stock Argo gears on the Intermediate shafts since they are already #60. I will try to go to a #60 on the T20 but I haven't calculated the number of teeth I need yet to see if that is feasible.
I'm moving slow on this one but hopefully the purchase of the motor will push me forward.
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Hey Mike: your killing me with SUSPENCE!!!!!!!!!!!! We have not seen or heard anything from you since before Christmas. Just want to say that my brother, brother inlaw & myself dicussed this idea of a T20 trans in an ARGO about 15 to 20 years ago, back when we were running an Argo magnum, before Rock-Doctor videos on clutch tuning, when we HAD to run in low gear everywhere! We hope all is well with you, your family, & THE PROJECT! Sorry, loooong, darrrrk, cooooold nights in Copper Center, we need to hear some GOOD news. Thanks
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