2006 Argo Avenger with T20

[jpswift1]

Mike, Talk to Mark (MaxIVMark). He got a set of Polaris clutches (drive and driven) for his Max 8x8 project. He might be able to point you in the right direction.

[Mike]

Working only a few miles from 600 Racing, the company that sells Bandolero motors, is too tempting. During lunch two days ago I stopped by and picked up a "cardboard crate" motor. I just pulled it out of it's "crate" tonight:


Here I am doing an eyeball test to see if #60 chain and sprocket will be even close to fitting on the T20 output shaft without rubbing the case:


Finally, tonight I set the Bandolero motor in the Argo to play with the clutch alignment and see how much room I actually have.


The clutch on the T20 in the photos is the old Argo driven clutch which has a larger diameter shaft than the T20 so it is wedged in place for the photos. I compared it to the 780 in my Max and it is just about the same width/offset so I think using it for mockup will work fine.

I found that the stock offset clutch won't work without modifying the tub. Unfortunately, even if I wanted to modify the tub I couldn't due to the placement of the drive clutch in relation to the tires. Where the body needs to be remolded would hit the tires. That's not a big issue though as I was planning on using an offset clutch anyway to help center the motor.

Thanks to Jim for posting his measurements above. That gave me something to compare against. If I use that invance clutch, it should place the belt roughly where I have it in these photos. This belt is obviously too short but it helped align things for measuring:



Really there are only three concerns now that I need to worry about:
1. Will the drive clutch clear the tub.
2. Can I find a belt that is the right length. The motor only has about 1.5" of movement from being as close as I want it to the T20 to being as close as I want it to the front of the tub so I hope I can find one that works. The center to center distance needs to be 14".
3. Can I get the belt to clear the front left chain adjuster (see the last picture below). I think I can raise the motor enough to clear the adjuster and if not I can modify it.

[lewis]

Looks like you have been working hard Mike. Since you have plenty of head room maybe a vibration insulator will give you your height to keep off the adjuster.
Keep up the great work.

[micmac]

Here are the dimensions and Specs for the invance system

[Mike]

Looks like you have been working hard Mike. Since you have plenty of head room maybe a vibration insulator will give you your height to keep off the adjuster.
Keep up the great work.

I did that with my Max IV and ended up having to remove them due to the deflection of the motor under load, even with a brace to help prevent that. I think what I will do if I have to raise it is to use metal to raise up the motor and then use really thin 1/4" isolators. Either way, you're right, that is a good way to gain some clearance.

Here are the dimensions and Specs for the invance system

Thanks for uploading that Mike.

[jpswift1]

Mike, If you're in need of some thin isolators, McMaster-Carr or Fastenal should be able to help you out. MaxIVMark did some research on this and found some good ones to use for his Max IV.....much more duranle than the stock Recreatives ones. Maybe even some 1/4" (or whatever amount you need to raise the engine up) aluminum blocks or cylinders would fit the bill.

As far as belts go, there are lots of options. The guys at Buffalo Bearing can get pretty much any size drive belt you need. If you want to see if you can find a production snowmobile belt, try looking here:

Towards the end of the catalog on page 44 there will be the belts listed by length and width. There is also a chart where you can cross reference them with other brands. Hope this helps. Keep up the good work, Mike!

http://www.goodyearrubberproducts.co...nt%20Belts.pdf

[thebuggyman1]

And here are more dimensions. ATV and Snowmobile Belts - by Dayco

[Mike]

I've been speaking with Roy at Quality Drive (great guy with tons of knowledge) and finally ordered my CVTs and belt today. Since I'm not making a ton of HP I ended up just going with the 780 series drive clutch and the Invance driven clutch. The Invance should give me the offset that I need. He was going to use some lighter weights for the higher RPM but other than that they will just be the stock clutches. I asked about the Team CVT driven roller clutch but Roy said that they stopped producing them for some reason.

[ARGOJIM]

Mike you could remove the adjusters if needed. They were a good idea we all wanted that doesn't really work, as the chains seem to take forever to stretch enough to use the adjuster and just cause a annoying slapping chain noise. You could ask Lewis his thoughts on them I know he has some hours on his first Avenger.

[lewis]

That's ok Jim, i get it spelled that way a lot.

Never had any trouble with the chain adjuster after i went to the new style. They are simple enough to remove. If you could make the old style(Conquest) work in this location that would solve the issue. They are low profile and may even work in the slots where the current Avenger ones are/were.

[Mike]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm not too concerned about the adjuster. It might not even be an issue as it could clear the belt. I'll just have to wait until I get the clutches in and see where things fall. The other thing I was thinking about was to just rework the mount for the adjuster a little so that it doesn't stick up as high. I'll try to get some better photos when the clutches come in.

[MAX IV Mark]

Here I am doing an eyeball test to see if #60 chain and sprocket will be even close to fitting on the T20 output shaft without rubbing the case:

Mike,
That looks like a 80 chain and not a 60 to me. The 50 and 60 both have the same roller width of 3/8". But an 80 will fit also, Kevin has one set up on one of his projects I was looking at last time I was at RI.

MAX IV Mark

[Mike]

Mike,
That looks like a 80 chain and not a 60 to me. The 50 and 60 both have the same roller width of 3/8". But an 80 will fit also, Kevin has one set up on one of his projects I was looking at last time I was at RI.

MAX IV Mark

I think the picture is misleading since I was pushing the chain as far over as I could. This chain came off my Avenger and the #60 sprockets it has. I think the #60 chain has a width of 1/2" as well. ...Off to Google just to double check.

Edit: I found some specs on the #60 and it does have 1/2" roller width. Knowing that Kevin got the #80 to fit is good information though. I shouldn't have any problems with the #60 that I ordered.

[maicolover]

Mark # 50 is 1/2" pitch and #60 is 3/4" pitch chain and they don't use same width rollers! Mike has #60 chain pictured. #60 has 1/2" wide roller on id and .695 oeverall width od, #50 has .390 wide Id & ..548 od on roller links. Connector link or total chain width and pitch lenght is diffrent also. 60 is also available in 60H and has heavier side links for more strenght.

[MAX IV Mark]

Mark # 50 is 1/2" pitch and #60 is 3/4" pitch chain and they don't use same width rollers! Mike has #60 chain pictured. #60 has 1/2" wide roller on id and .695 oeverall width od, #50 has .390 wide Id & ..548 od on roller links. Connector link or total chain width and pitch lenght is diffrent also. 60 is also available in 60H and has heavier side links for more strenght.

Not sure if my reference material was wrong, but 50 is 5/8" pitch I believe not 1/2"
Motorcycle Primary and Secondary Drive Chains Explained