The master build thread for K.I.T.T But aplicable to all others.

[spookum]

Update: G-10 news and transmission news for this build

Pulled the G-10 out of the metro and got it to run

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/engines/22875-suzuki-g10-implanting-into-aatv.html

and the build of the Polaris P85 clutch adapter (From a a 2000 to a 2005 Polaris 700 or 800)

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/engines/23280-suzuki-g-10-snow-machine-clutch-adapter.html

Can use a polaris secondary on the tranmission with minimal modifications (yippie)

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/transmissions/23316-polaris-driven-clutch-argo-trans-super-argo-also-called-secondary.html#post123985

Going to take a 4X8 sheet and have 4 exterior frame rails built and a smaller 4 footer for frame rail extension (so i can fit the HDi axel shafts in the front)

Stay tuned! Should be fun

[spookum]

axel extensinos are being stamped out tomorow. 1 sheet 4' by 8 ' of ten gauge, 140$ USD. one peice 2'long by 6 inches wide. and 4 peices 7'6" long by six inches wide. all peices will be bent into 1" by 4" channel. 1 will cut the 2' peice in half for frame rail extensions. The rest will require holes cut and jigged together to be placed out side of the frame and tub. The outboard bearing will be the HDi bearigns, the middle will be the stock 62 mm argo bearings and the inner frame rail will be normal inner HDi axel bearings.

This should reinforce the frame immensly. IF it isnt strong enough, i can tie them together out side the body (and have an exterior bumper), and back up into the belly band (yet to be fabricated out of steel) and THAT would be stuipid strong. I think i can run 16 wheels with this set up, and i think i wont bend anything. Even with the suzuki engine, and i will be still using double 50 chains all the way through!

extending the inner frame rails to change from LONG axel shafts to SHORT HDi axel shafts

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/argo-atvs/23515-old-argo-frame-extension-so-i-can-run-hdi-axles-long-axle-machine.html

Now that i have the front frame rails extended out, it is time to reinforce the rear of the frame and have a soild point for mounting up the rear hitch. I bolted the peice on the argo, and squared it.



Now for some 1.5 by 1.5 angle iron 1/8 inch thick.


Flip the argo over, and weld the belly pan on. I should have tacked it to the inner frame rails in the front. it got hot and bowed it down a little bit. Dang

[spookum]

yeahaw!



Polaris orange spring and "1A" weights (47.9 Grams). Super thanks again to AKbufftruck. The man is a machine, he and I fabbed up motor mounts in 7 hours. WOW. 12 inches center to center and a 16 MM off set.

Couldnet get the "orginal" polaris clutch to work. Turns out it was for an 800 Sportsman not a polairs snow mobile. Crazy how many parts DID innerchange!

Normal argo clutch is 2:1 and 1:1 . The Polaris Snow mobile is 3.84:1 and .76 :1 respectivly. Any bets on how fast it will go..... i know fast enough to scare me an i really want the low end grunt. But hey, just one pass with the GPS. Probbably about as fast as one with a 440 in it.

[gimmegreens336]

Happy to watch! Good luck!

[spookum]

Thanks! Got the frame and bearing extensions finished, cleaned and painted. Started to tie up odds and ends on the argo engine/ power pack.

[spookum]

Here is the full lenght bearing extensions! and the modified frame



Frame looks good




that dont look like a hilbilly... rain rain go a way.... winter come some other day.

[spookum]

"I want alll that... in.... here" - XXX (aka vin diesel)

stabing axels in - Amphibious ATV Pictures


Looking good. Notice the plow bracket?

stabing axels in - Amphibious ATV Pictures

Running 3 bearings per axel. If that dont keep from breaking....

stabing axels in - Amphibious ATV Pictures

Looking like an argo. Tub is saggin almost 3 inches under the metal tub. Dont know if i should try to pull it up. or wait for the full body skid plate another day. it ATE a 52 MM jack shaft bearing.

stabing axels, and jack shaft too - Amphibious ATV Pictures

[spookum]

yah baby



not sure what to do about this. The chain is touching the adjuster arm. That cant be good. If i put the adjuser on the other side of the bracket, i think the adjuster will hit the frame and bend. Looks like i need to move the sprocket over....



If you look really hard at the picture, you can see the wear marks on the cross brace of the frame (middle left side of the pic). Looks to me like the chains were off. Measured the jack shaft to second axel. Yep, their out of alighnment. So, that is what happens when you put your inboard bearings in backwards. The allen headed set screws and thicker coller needs to be touching the washer, not inside the frame. Easy fix, loosen set screws, flip inboard bearings around, re tighten. Just time consuming when the G-10 wants to run.....

[spookum]

need to fix an exhaust leak and to take it for a spin. Hope the engaggemnt RPM isnt REALLY that high!

[spookum]

This is why i am runing a P-85 polaris primary. They are all the same. Other snow mobile manufacturers change the desighn of their clutches. Polaris really never has. They even use a smaller P-85 style clutch in their ATVs.

I dont yet know much about these clutches. I do know that to engage the belt you have the weights that fly around in a circle createing a cintripital force. when this force is great enough to over come the spring, the belt engages.

I have learned, from the snow machine forums, that the spring is the key factor in base engagement RPM (measured at 2.5 inces) and total shift out RPM (measured at 1.19inces). The weights should be used to fine tune this curve of engagement RPM and total shift out. You can shave material off the "shoulder" nearest the hole and get the machine to "hit" harder. The driven clutch does not matter in theis equation, it is most useful in "back shift"

In theory if i have a spring like my orange one that engages at 2500 rpm and total shift out at 9000 rpm, i can shift that down by changing the spring weight alone.

My orange spring is a 70 lb / 199 lb spring. I have several options

My current favorate is the green spring, it is a 42/142 spring, and not only used in sleds but also used in ATVS But i dont know if it is long enough

i also like the yellow, 44/185

The ultimate clutch weight would be the heel clicker. (google that!!! want a set for my RMK!!!!)

let me know what you think, and im not opposed to any crazy ideas!

http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum/topic/83885-polaris-spring-chart

But before i do anyhting, i should probbably hook a tack up and see what it is really doing!

[spookum]

yah, the cluthing is REALLY that high. I have the green spring on the way ( i hope) Special thanks to mark of 2-D max, for the redicoulsous amount of help! Also thanks to MiteyMt for the insperation, and NorthCountryTough and ROCKdoctor... SMOG and all the others amnd Obsesed!. Y'll kept me beleiving!

WIth out further adue;

Good video to watch the clutch.. Come on guys lets go for a ride!.... wait it runs this hard on 2 cylenders????? WOW Never had a spark plug wire fall out of the distributor before LOL
https://[url=http://www.youtube.com/...[/url]

HIgh speed pass time.... Got it to WOT and about 1/2 shift out....

https://[url=http://www.youtube.com/...[/url]

Special thanks again to all the helped... dang i need a hair cut!!!

[jpswift1]

Spookum, you've created a monster! I LOVE it! Very nice work. It sounds amazing and unlike most Argos that I've seen and driven there is no hesitation when this one turns. That engine sounds great.....I'll certainly be replaying those videos over and over.

[Beeman]

Awesome!

[Noel Woods]

Spookum, you've created a monster! I LOVE it! Very nice work. It sounds amazing and unlike most Argos that I've seen and driven there is no hesitation when this one turns. That engine sounds great.....I'll certainly be replaying those videos over and over.

I agree. This is a nice powerplant for an amphib sized machine. I didn't feel the same when the 1.0Liter was in a Chevy Sprint I owned back in 1986 but thats another story.

There are three ways to get performance out of an Argo with the differential steering. 1) lower the gearing, The 3.3 gears even with an 18hp give performance comparable to a Hustler 980 / Max4 with 18 horses. 2) Raise the power. Argos perform really well with even the 23hp motor when turning, Adair Argo has transplanted larger engines in and they feel like a t20 when turning. 3)Adair tracks: even older machines with 16-18hp steer very well with the tracks.

My Argo Frontier has 2.6 gears, 23hp, and Adair tracks. It compares very favorably with any other amphib I've driven. The newer Argos with the Admiral steering transmission feel even better.

Its all relative. Spookum I think you have done a fantastic job on the transplant. This should raise the bar on engine conversions and I think the documentation thread you gave us will be a step by step tool that others will use. Keep the vids coming man.

[spookum]

I agree. This is a nice powerplant for an amphib sized machine. I didn't feel the same when the 1.0Liter was in a Chevy Sprint I owned back in 1986 but thats another story.

There are three ways to get performance out of an Argo with the differential steering. 1) lower the gearing, The 3.3 gears even with an 18hp give performance comparable to a Hustler 980 / Max4 with 18 horses. 2) Raise the power. Argos perform really well with even the 23hp motor when turning, Adair Argo has transplanted larger engines in and they feel like a t20 when turning. 3)Adair tracks: even older machines with 16-18hp steer very well with the tracks.

My Argo Frontier has 2.6 gears, 23hp, and Adair tracks. It compares very favorably with any other amphib I've driven. The newer Argos with the Admiral steering transmission feel even better.

Its all relative. Spookum I think you have done a fantastic job on the transplant. This should raise the bar on engine conversions and I think the documentation thread you gave us will be a step by step tool that others will use. Keep the vids coming man.

YOu should see it in low range!!!!!!!! Dont forget, i think i could have left that 16 HP tecumse in there and put the polaris primary and secondary on THAT. all of my research pointed to the BEST stock argo or max or comet clutch ratio as being a 2:1. Polaris is a 4:1.... that doubles the low end right there! IT takes some shimming on the trans to get keep it from hitting the breaks, but a more modern machine with hydralic breaks will not have quite the clearnce issues i had! Also, there is somone on this site who should be setting up his machine shop to BUILD adapters. He said it he may be moved into his shop by this fall.

The thing is, that if your going to spend the time to fabricate motor mounts, run new wiring, figure out a new CVT system why not go this route? For dependability and price, i dont think you can beat it. For the cost of upgrading a modern argo to a remote mount altinator (300 bucks) i bought a complete geo metro.... granted the engine was seized but it ran when it was parked!