Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Experimental chain tensioners

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Experimental chain tensioners

    Well, finally got the chain adjusters finished and ready to bolt in place. I had to completely disassemble the Hustler, which was good, because there were some factory welds that had come loose and I could feel the frame flexing. This was a good opportunity to fix those issues.

    The goal with these tensioners was first to have tensioners that did not have to be re-adjusted every time I rode the Hustler, and to eliminate a lot of driveline shock created by a static chain tensioner.

    In the picture where the tensioner is already installed, we welded additional cross bracing due to the factory welds coming loose, and attached the tensioner to the square tubing that we welded in. This tensioner will push up on the chain by simply loosening the bolts from the top. We welded nuts on the bottom of the tubing so that a backup will not be needed.

    The tensioner that is just sitting on the trailer, will be bolted to the frame in back and will pull up on the chain by tightening the bolts, again, no back-up will be necessary.

    I am pretty excited about all the changes I have made this time around....red clutch spring, correct belt tension, chain tensioners, and re-sealed T-20. A little cleaning up and painting on the frame, and I am ready to re-assemble.

    BTW, I HATE the keyed axles on the center drive axle where there are three sprockets. They tend to get stuck, and I broke my hand two weeks ago by accidentally hitting it with a hammer when beating on them (It's ok to make fun of me, everybody else has!). I did find that on the axles with only one sprocket it is very easy to remove the outer flange bolts, all set-screws, pull out the axle until the sprocket is close to the frame, and use an air hammer through the outer bearing hole to remove sprocket!

    Here's the pics..

    Chain tensioners pictures from friends & fun photos on webshots
    Hammers should have warning labels.

  • #2
    I guess you were just trying to live up to your screen name!!


    Don't feel bad I think everyone of us on here has damaged ourselves working on these machines. I've got a long list of stuff I've done.

    BTW the tensioners look great I hope the work for you. Maybe you can make a set of fully splined axles and sprockets for the middle axels. Might work better than just the keyed system.

    Mike
    "Don't worry my Dad's a TV repairman, he has an excellent set of tools..I can fix It"

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Boncrshr,
      First, I like the chain adjusters, they look good.
      Sorry about your hand, But like Mike said, we've all done it(several times)
      That's a good looking crew in some of your pictures,looks like they're having a good time.
      Let us know how the adjusters work.
      Bruce

      Comment


      • #4
        Boncrshr:
        beautiful fab. good ideas.
        I have a question:
        referring to the tensioner sitting on the trailer, that will pull by tightening the bolts, wouldn't the springs go on the other side? Do you use the spring tension against the chain?

        Just wondering if I'm confused..........again......
        Henry:
        I don't know where I'm going, but, I'm on my way...........

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey MicMac,

          Yes, I did unfortunately live up to my screen name..but in reverse! I am a chiropractor, so my official nickname among my buddies is bonecrusher...little did I know that poor hand/eye coordination and a hammer would do me in!

          Hey HDBLE,

          Thanks for the compliment, we have a pretty big crew both here and in the Philippines...we usually go once a year to abuse our livers with San Mig beer...it is a blast, unless you end up somewhere with no plumbing and then it is just camping in the jungle.

          Hey ygmir,

          Sorry, I probably did not explain enough on the adjuster sitting on the trailer. Basically the bolts will insert through the top of the frame in the rear of the Hustler, the chain will sit on top of the roller, but underneath the frame. The springs below the roller will sit on a flat stock keeper that has nuts welded to the bottom. So when you tighten the bolts from the top, it will raise the keeper, thereby increasing the spring tension upwards on the roller. Hopefully this will work as good as I hope that it will!
          Hammers should have warning labels.

          Comment


          • #6
            I'd say you have a winner there.
            Good design, easy to fabricate, looks quite durable, as well......

            nice job!!
            Henry:
            I don't know where I'm going, but, I'm on my way...........

            Comment


            • #7
              Oh yeah, forgot to add, if this works well, it is a very cheap upgrade over the stock Hustler chain adjusters, which don't seem to work too well. All parts were available at a local hardware store.

              If these work well, my next project will be a cost effective, self-adjusting idler sprocket on the drive chains. I have seen some stuff online that looks like it might bolt right in, but they are 30-40 bucks each. I was thinking about looking in a junkyard to see if a serpentine belt tensioner could be modified to do this. But they are expensive to buy new....
              Hammers should have warning labels.

              Comment


              • #8
                I had been thinking along those lines, like a spring loaded arm, using the stock hustler mouns, but, pivoting there, and, using a spring for tension......
                Henry:
                I don't know where I'm going, but, I'm on my way...........

                Comment


                • #9
                  "BTW, I HATE the keyed axles on the center drive axle where there are three sprockets. They tend to get stuck, and I broke my hand two weeks ago by accidentally hitting it with a hammer when beating on them"

                  We'll have to start calling you "hndcrshr"! Just kidding, man I feel your pain. If I had found this site sooner I would have asked Dr. Whipper to cut splined axels for my machine. The triple sprockets on the center axels are a pain in the rear to get set up, although they have not worked loose once since I added the locking nuts. I dread having to eventually replace the bearings. Probably have to cut off $150.00 worth of sprockets on both axels!
                  You might be on to something with the tensioner... I have been experimenting with some home made tensioners but mine have to be adjusted on a regular basis. Snap some pictures when you get the whole thing set up.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey Meinfeld,

                    Handcrusher is ok too... hehehe.

                    The possibility of having to cut your sprockets off somewhere down the line is a very real possibility. But check this out, tim1jr posted a site in this thread...



                    It is a surplus site, and I got to looking at it, and they have our sprockets on there for about 10 bucks apiece. So I ordered what I needed plus a couple of extras. You may want to go ahead and order some and have them on the shelf. Here is the link...

                    Surplus Center Item Detail
                    Hammers should have warning labels.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Bon, thanks for the link. One thing to consider, however, is purchasing sprockets with hardened teeth. They are about twice the money but will last much longer and will keep the wear down on the chains. I used them for the two drive sprockets on the center axels.
                      Did you ever get new shoes for your hustler? I really like the new rawhides on mine. They ride smooth, pull well in the mud are fair swimmers. Plus Matt O has very competitive pricing!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I had never heard about the hardened teeth? Maybe that's why the original sprockets I bought were so expensive, about 30-40 bucks apiece.

                        No new tires yet. I am going to PM MattO today. Did you get the 25" rawhides? Do you miss the mudding ability of your other tires?

                        I have been researching rims, and I can tell you there is not much of anything out there with a 5x4.5 bolt pattern.
                        Hammers should have warning labels.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Bonchrshr:
                          It seems it'd not be so hard to buy a rim and layout and drill the correct bolt pattern, using one of your rims as a template.
                          I'm sure they are mild steel, and, not super thick.......

                          I'd probably get a rim with the most difference in bolt patterns, to try to avoid interference in the one you want.
                          You could even weld up the holes you don't use, once you get the correct pattern.

                          Does your Hustler have a "parking" brake? Mine has a handle, but, nothing connected....seems it'd be a good idea.
                          Henry:
                          I don't know where I'm going, but, I'm on my way...........

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yeah, I guess what I should have said was there is a wild variance in price, most of the best deals seem to be on golf cart rims. I just got a headache yesterday weighing all of the options.....I PM'ed MattO about his rims, that seems like it would be the easiest/best solution...9" rims would open me up for 2 tire choices that are proven swimmers, Rawhides and Vampires......

                            As far as a parking brake, I have most of the parts I think, but have not bothered to mess with it....seems like everywhere I ride is so flat I have never needed one. But I have the handle, cable, rotor looking thing and caliper. But the caliper does not seem to have any kind of brake pad on it??
                            Hammers should have warning labels.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I uploaded a few pics of the tensioners actually in place. The rear tensioners (the ones pulling upwards on the chain from the bottom) look like they are going to work really well. The other ones I'm not too sure about, I'm going to play with it a little more. Here's the link...

                              Chain tensioners pictures from friends & fun photos on webshots
                              Hammers should have warning labels.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X