Muscateer out for a drive

[riotwarrior]

This be the oil cooler/s I've chose to setup for the transmission and engine.

Here I've got the tranny one resting and you can see the rad above it



situated correctly it's about 1/2" above the top of rad cap...not much at all and is full width of rad, I can use the factory 6 bolt holes on rad you can see in the above images for attaching the cooler


This little one is for engine and is in front of the large transmission one






And the busy side, with the fan that sucks air through from the other side


That would be a good setup IMHO

Thanks for reading

[riotwarrior]

This be the oil cooler/s I've chose to setup for the transmission and engine.

Here I've got the tranny one resting and you can see the rad above it



situated correctly it's about 1/2" above the top of rad cap...not much at all and is full width of rad, I can use the factory 6 bolt holes on rad you can see in the above images for attaching the cooler


This little one is for engine and is in front of the large transmission one






And the busy side, with the fan that sucks air through from the other side


That would be a good setup IMHO

Thanks for reading

[riotwarrior]

I have a couple of coolers in stock here so I'm ok.....

That being said, 4 holes drilled and voila...gotterdun



3 on this side...blue locktite and done


two on this side...one more but I will use that spot to bolt on the engine oil cooler next...not before it gets some mods


as I said just a wee bit over rad cap....so Golden..and I can still remove that cap LOL


So once I have the engine oil cooler and some stand off tubes made up I'll bolt it in place and be done.

That should be all I need for cooling. Now to find my stupid pumps...where the hell did I put them...this shop cleanup is killing me I can't find nuthin!

Time to pick up some 3/8 oil cooler line too so I can plumb this all in.

Thanks for reading

[riotwarrior]

Good day today with this unit.

Got some essential wiring investigation done. Basically I grabbed the multi meter and went to town on the diesel Ign Switch determining what post does what. I then wrote it down as a wiring diagram so I can follow it later. I also did same with the wires going to/from the VR for the diesel. That leaves me to test the dynamo leads and ensure it's working correctly. If not I may bypass it completely and remove the idler pulley then install a small internally regulated Alternator for more available power for winching and so forth...maybe a small 1500 Watt inverter etc.

Also removed my gauges, and current wires so I can establish new circuits for lights, reverse lamp, 12v port, Glow plug indicator and so on. It all comes down to another REDUX of electrical as the original was bad, mine was better and now the new stuff for diesel setup will be even better.

Cut the dash for the Bilge pump controller so I can install it as well. Still have to acquire two bilge pumps, one for each sides chain wells and then plumb them so they discharge out the sides.

With all that I located my Shureflow pump and now can start to locate fittings and a back flow check valve so I can make the transmission cooler up and running. I doubt the pump will last for hot oil but it's going to work for proof of concept.

Off to exhaust and I cut the current spring over the muffler into two springs, rebent the cut end to a double loop and 90 deg offset and bolted one on one side and couldnt find bolts for the other..doh..tomorrow then that's taken care of too.

There is a bad leak from my LEFT control stick so I am contemplating unhitching it from the lever and then seeing if I can fix the leak in the tub instead of having to undo all the lines and remove the entire control cylinder. I'll take pics of that if I do it in tub and also if I remove it.

One thing, I still need to locate a bung fitting for the return line for fuel, as I picked up some 3/16" ID Tygon fuel line for return line and a fitting to go into the fuel tank. Hope to have that wrapped up soon as well.

Seems to be about all I've done today, so productive but not HUGE movement on it.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Hmm...for testing and demonstrative purposes only...children don't try this at home!

Got the cooler plumbed however it may need a redux...this is for testing and so forth. LET ME say I'm hopeful that this will solve my issues once and for all.

That's what I've got done and I"m quite happy with it.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Well attempted to run up the machine today to high RPM's while sitting and the transmission ends up pumping and airating fluid up the vent tube...hmmm...not good.

Blocked the machine up on one side 2", then I let it pump out fluid till it was nearly stopped. This drained out 300ml of fluid. Removed blocks and it's still pumping fluid up vent tube, so now I'm going to increase the vent tube diameter, build a catch can/ vent/reservoir and hopefully get this solved once and for all.

The cooler seems to strip heat off quite well. I'm quite pleased with it so far.

Well I am attempting to see what Amsoil recommends for fluid for this unit, so far ATF is what I've used, but TDH transmission fluid for tractors is an option I am considering.

Catch can to be built tomorrow most likely with some ABS I have floating around here.

Thanks for reading

[riotwarrior]

Hmm....Throttle works like hot damn!

Well today I did the IED on the six wheeler...that's an Improvised Expansion Tank aka breather/overflow etc

So with some 2 1/2" plastic pipe two caps and another 1/2" fitting I've created a nice little IED as I like to call it.

Here is the jist of it.

ahh...some container goodness


the fed end


tiny hole at the top for atmospheric vent


Plumbed for business.....Oh ya


Installed....LOL don't laugh it works well.



Ah...the I E D label Improvised Expansion Device buwa ha ha ha ha...


And I will be doing a LIL video to show how well the IED works...once I get the next stage taken care of...

Now I'm onto wiring up this beast somewhat, have some plans, got the Main power lead figured out to IGN switch, also running the GP wire, and was smart enough to make a union on it at the engine so when time to pull engine it is pull the plug and voila..engine comes out! Easy Peasy!

Thanks for reading

[riotwarrior]

Did the trip to Kelowna picked up the JD 1630 with no problem. Used the trailer I installed the winch on...rocks that does!

Onto what I grabbed was 5 rolls of various coloured primary wire in 14 ga two weld in bungs for fuel tank return line...which ever one works best..

While in Kelowna I get a call, Hey Al, Dale here, I dropped my tractor off for service, Oh I'm in Kelowna picking up a tractor and won't be back for a few hours, hope that's not a problem, Nope, Ok I'll get on it when I get back.

So upon return an oil change and some copper washers in the fuel system, a steam clean and done! bout an hour of work, so near 90 bucks with cost of oil/filter.

Alas, here are some pics from wiring yesterday and the new rolls of wire...craptastic price of 8 bucks a roll for 25'

Now this is the product I use to coat crimps before crimping unless I'm doing crimp/solder...also I coat the contacts and threaded terminals as well.


Car audio oxygen free, tinned copper wire 8 ga from starter power in, up to the Ign switch. For most of my automotive installs of almost anything, I try to use hi quality materials like this wire and the corresponding fuses and so forth to promote good solid installs, thus that has transferred over to my six wheeler too


double insulated spade terminals M/F with spades coated in goop for electrical contacts. Not heat shrink too to support wire further, this is so engine removal is easier to undo GP lead. Look close you see the clamps I use to support wire and fuel lines, just wire in this picture


GP end of wire


Now this tub is NON conductive fiberglass, yet I still grommet fuel and electrical LMAO


Again...for fuel pump electrical lines, now that it's being installed permanently it gets done RIGHT


All the above was yesterdays work.

And the stack of wire I picked up today and I'm pointing to the likely bung candidate for welding into the fuel tank


So with all the wire, and a BLACK paint marker, and a RED paint marker and a YELLOW and WHITE paint marker, I can make a great harness with proper colouring and tracer colours if needed

Well tomorrow it's finish off the S10 then get back onto my six wheeler so I can drive this damn thing. I'll pump out fuel tank and prep it for removal and welding in the bung.

Enough for now...

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

More wire strung today, and control panel prepped for install.

So I'm NOT big on cutting wire till all lengths are set in stone, so here I"ve run the leads for the starter in blue, the fuel pump in green and the transmission cooler pump in brown. Leaving the rolls intact until I have the other end setup exactly as I need with eyelets on the ends I can set length, pull back excess and cut/crimp/heatshrink the ends to the correct length. This saves aggravation by either cutting to long of wire and having to trim it or worse, too short and having to add an extension. To me this is the best method bar none....others experiences may differ LOL


Here you can see the 8 ga wire with black tape on end protecting it and also the other wires pulled through for the main switch panel I'm using for now. This panel is turning out quite nice and I may even toss on a gauge or two and a couple of warning lights, as well. LOW oil pressure, and CHARGE light as well, as they are stock with the Kubota engine.


I then had company show up and spent too much time chatting and not enough time working. Oh well all good.

Tomorrow I'll be damn near wrapped up and have the electrical mostly completed. I should be able to shall I say, start and run the machine, once again.

Charge system is still up in air as I'm maybe going to get a small case 3G Ford Alt and add it in.

Well thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

damn....damn damn damn damn....grrrrrrr

Ran the plastic tubing for the OIL pressure gauge today, removed the oil pressure warning light sender and Low and behold, the sender fits INTO the 1/8" NPT Tee I have, on all three ports, the gauge sending adapter fits too, and so does the 2" long 1/8" nipple.....but does the nipple fit the block...Noooo...NO freaking way I could thread it in.

It appears the threads on the pipe nipple are not cut deep enough or tapered enough, or...OR ...the oil pressure warning sender is some type of metric thread I dunno...just pised off I am.

On a side note, I did however get more wiring completed and I'm glad about that.

I'm thinking tonight I'll pump out the fuel tank so I can remove it and do a more complete job of under the front end wiring and get the bung welded into it for the return line as well.

I'm just working slow on this as I want to do this thing right and once and NOT have to redux this any time soon. Once these wiring and fuel issues are done, the machine will be damn near as NEW, and I want it to perform as new too. NO break downs due to electrical or fuel related issues etc.

Man I'm getting kinda project bummed out...but I keep on keeping on so I can have a useful tool for home, farm, SAR and fun.

Thanks for reading

[riotwarrior]

Just checked on my tap/die set, and I've got both 1/8" NPT tap and die, I rechased the nipple with my tap and low and behold a significant taper to the thread now compared to previously.

If that grease gun hose works I'll do it so when I remove engine I can just uncouple it from the T, that would make it really convenient in my mind. The more I can do to simplify service to this the better.

Oh this has been today...BTW

Ahh...the low oil pres, warning sender, sorry for blurry pic but camera wouldn't focus and I had no room to move back..


the oil pressure gauge new tubing is threaded along Pass side and reached to sender easily


Here with fuel tank removed, you can now see the added wood and 1/8" steel plate I used on inside of winch mount...clearly this is strong! I don't think I'll pull bolts, maybe whole front end off but not bolts....but that's 3/4" plywood glassed to tub under the 1/8" plate...ya should be good to pull. Two holes on RIGHT up top are for power wires to winch I'll be installing with all this out.


Ah front of unit with mount...ya strong!


Pulls from below winch and above winch or top and bottom of tub...


RETURN line location to be


This is the fitting I'm going to weld into place


Bung fitting I'm adding to bottom of tank



Yuppers all welded into place, now to plug it and test for leaks...




and the return line fitting


Got a score, the Super wifey brought this home today, small case Ford 3G alternator...this could be the end all be all of electrical power for this machine



Would sit something like this...???


That would make charging battery and winching superior to the lil Dynamo in the fan assembly, which in and of it's self is a RPITA to setup considering I've not got all the stock parts to do so.

Well gotta cook some dinner soon, then I'll be out to test the tank for leaks if none then paint and steam it out again and call Lordco on a fuel tank sealer kit.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Ahh....man it's coming together..

NEW Tygon return line installed, I've got to get some clamps for this stuff....somewhere somehow


I wanted to see what I could do to get a visual of how the lines and wiring are coming along under the edge in the small clamps. Clearly that oil pressure line needs a bit of TLC but I'll get it, I can't reach in that space to easy, other than that this is working superb! This is looking back to where the fuel line exits INTO the tub by fuel pump, and all the electrical for the fuel pump, starter, trans cooler pump etc.


again looking back but from about where the fuel line would enter tank so to speak..


Welded and done, now to seal inside


cleaned up the fuel filter that came with the engine, it's a small cannister, I'm thinking this is getting installed


small section of inlet broke off hope it's not a problem


likely get installed someplace like about HERE lol


and a reminder of what it all looked like when I got it...notice pile of wire near head lights..


Ya this beast has come a LEAPS and BOUNDS from where it was...

So that's tonights work and I'm done for today.

Thanks for reading

[riotwarrior]

Got NEW fuel line and filter installed, still need run main fuel line forward to the tank location.

Ah filter housing, and I'm going to replace this unit eventually




Lines getting installed






Got line installed and grommet for safety


Now electrical, Ahh...Two uhm GM products here, for wire/electrical distribution


I will run ONE of the above from the ACC circuit on the keyed switch, to power items like Hour meter, and switch panel.




The other one will be off the MAIN power INTO the keyed switch for constant power, like HORN, and 12V acc plug I have.

This will help to consolidate how the power is tapped and clean up wiring to the Ign switch.

Looks like this is coming together...woo hoo...

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Oooooo...Aaaaaa...

Off to Penticton today and I was at Lordco and picked up this kit here
POR-15 Motorcycle Fuel Tank Repair Kit

Now I can get back working on the fuel tank and wiring and get tank cleaned up and installed along with remaining wiring.

Looks like a straight forward procedure to clean/seal the tank. I'm going to get some PVC pipe plugs for the three bung holes to cap them and the filler hole sits INSIDE the tank enough it won't drain out of the hole.

I'll post pics and a fully detailed HOW to...maybe this can be a TECH 101 for big tanks too??? I'll see what I come up with.

Well now to and deal with a few things before Rose gets home.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Well it's cooled right down and with the Super's Ranger I've been neglecting the Muscateer.

Today with sore back and all I did eff all on ranger except get a NEW block heater and install it LOL>

Then into shop some mild cleanup and on to the six wheeler!

I figured time to get some electrical completed and sorted out, picking up where I had left off in post 354!

Thus that brings me to my electrical panel, and switches etc.

I added to more fuse blocks so I could do a fuse for 12V power outlet/horn combined, leaving me one single fuse for future use, and I may tie in a switch as an optional switch as well...strobes perhaps? I dunno but better to have it when I need it right?...

So here is where I am so far...pointing to LOW OIL PRESSURE light then to the left are two fuse cases and then the s4 circuit switch panel for all my stuff


Four switches are

GREEN UNSWITCHED transion oil cooler pump

RED SWITCHED fuel pump

AMBER SWITCHED head lights

RED SWITCHED back up light

I'll be adding on a Green switch as well for strobes I think before I do much more..

Here is what I've got figured out on the backside...first prior to labeling...see those two chevy electrical gang wire setups...one is switched, one is unswitched. I may rewire this so MAIN power goes to unswitched and then to IGN switch currently it's to IGN then to Unswitched gang wire setup...


Then I thought why not label it...and some Sharpie time got me this!




So at this point I walked over tested it and it's working perfectly, so now to finish the last few items, then move on to installation and get the damn machine up and running.

I'm sure this will pay off in the end big time having all my electrical new, recorded, labeled and well installed. I'm not one for failures when I'm out and about. Still need to run POWER for Bilge pump switch and pumps...for future use right?

Oh I fubared my hour meter I see cause the male spades where broke off so some time it must have broke while in machine, why I don't know but I'll get a new one.

May run the Pyro to back and work on a bung for it in the exhaust.

Not sure what this leaves, except some how getting oil pressure gauge and light to work.

Well enough for now, thanks for looking...

Be back at this tonight.