Muscateer out for a drive

[Rudy_Magnum]

Lookin good! Was kinda looking for a fuel filter like that for the Yanmar. Everyone on evilbay wants a whole lot for them. Tried looking up that Napa part #, that's just the filter element itself.

[riotwarrior]

Lookin good! Was kinda looking for a fuel filter like that for the Yanmar. Everyone on evilbay wants a whole lot for them. Tried looking up that Napa part #, that's just the filter element itself.

You should be able to get the filter housing for 40-70 bucks, and with a clear bowl. I'm considering going to the clear bowl style myself just so one can see what's what.

Decided to spend time fixing wifes lil Ranger...engine swap and so forth, so that's wrapped up and essentially done and she's happy. Thus I'm happy, and today I removed cam gears and pump eccentrics from four 6.9/7.3 Ford/IHI IDI diesels so I can swap those cams as cores for head studs.

Man that means I've an engine for my truck to roll into shop and start tear down too as well.

Back to the Muscateer...

I've still got some lil bits to finnish for wiring, no big deal and I've worked out the basics on paper for a foot throttle, that leaves the fuel tank which I have a kit for and will document.

One thing I did do is start thinking out the HOW TO and so forth of engine cover and drive train cover to replace that expanded metal setup I could not use any longer.

As a fiberglasser I've some experience in a variety of methods of creating custom glass work. Fortunately for me my good friend Scotty, who is also a glasser from way back, now does blow in foam insulation. What we discussed was to MASK thoroughly all that needs covering and blow a big chunk of foam onto the engine area. Kinda like a big blob, which will then be cut/sanded into a shap that I want. At that point I'll set wood where needed for reinforcement, and then lay a layer of mat over the whole thing. Once set I can bust out all the foam, sand the inside and lay up more glass for reinforcement and so forth. Cut openings for ducting, and mounting hardware and paint then if need be some of that egg crate soft foam to make sound deadener inside the lid. This should provide me with a durable lid with capability to duct air in and out as needed along with a nice platform for gear.

You can all be assured I'll take plenty of pictures and document the glass work thoroughly.

Beer time now

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Today I've started and will complete the FUEL TANK sealing so long as I can get it thoroughly dried once I've got it cleaned.

Started by boiling a quart/litre of water and prepping the tank with a 1/2" NPT plug and some duct tape for the other openings, poured in hot water and the DEGREASER from POR 15 and sloshed it around for quite some time.

I'm thinking my SUPER CLEAN in the purple bottle smells the same as their degreaser...Hmm...wonder....cause that's what I first sprayed into the tank to clean it before I steamed it originally...LOL

After a thorough sloshing about, I let it sit a bit whilst I fired up the pressure washer on steam mode, and proceeded to drain that fuel tank then steam that bugger out nice and clean...NO GREASE or slime left I'm sure, it was so hot of a tank I could not touch it.

After rinsing it thoroughly I've not got METAL PREP in, which is reusable too they say, so I"ve got it set on my V block stand and every 7 minutes I slowly slosh it about and turn it another few degrees and let set and reset timer which is where I am right now...between sloshings/turning LOL

Here you can see what I'm talking bout, I've almost got a full revolution of the tank sitting, but between being stationary I slosh it once around as well...slowly tipping side to side and rotating it as I do that. Then once on each end slosh and back onto V block in next clocked position...12 positions makes for a complete revolotion...like clock right???

Here at 6 oclock stage LOL


feed and return line fittings


This be my filler neck LOL


Once I've got this stage done, I"ve gotta rinse it again after draining the material. Then dry it right out, they say (they Being POR 15) to use a heat gun to blow hot air into tank. So I'm thinking that I should take heat gun...blow in filler, leave out the remaining plugs and let the hot air escape that way...maybe add a low regulated air pressure feed into tank...say through my AIR DRYER too to blow maybe 60 PSI of DRY air into tank, that ought to make it good and dry and heated in the tank I'm thinking...

I've got a couple of tip/slosh/turn cycles left then rinse, so enough for now.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

damn rinse cycles..LOL
Muscateer fuel tank sealing Part 1 - YouTube

Next is dry cycle then the final stage of coating the inside...

Tank drying now

http://youtu.be/1Ar4GQRo-E4

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Lastly I've got a couple shots inside of the sealer, it appears to be basic silver/aluminum paint, but what do I know LOL

I've been rotating it similar to the metal prep but this time I want it warm so it's inside...Hope Super don't mind!






So it's surely coating the inside quite well by the looks of things, I'm doing the clock cycle thing to coat the inside thoroughly as I wait.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Removed my LOW oil pressure sender from the engine block, compared the threads to those on a hydraulic hose with 1/8" fittings.

BOTH HAVE THE SAME THREAD!!! So I decided that this would work and threaded in the hyd line, yuuuuup it fit, so I removed it added thread sealant and now I'm going to install the T seen in the picture, along with the LOW pressure sensor, and then lastly the nylon tube and fitting for the OIL PRESSURE GAUGE. Woo hoo...oh..this is a C@#% of a space to work in BTW...

So here is a gander at what I'm talking bout...

OH just got a new phone...so the pics should be crystal clear from now on!!!

Ahh...hydraulic line in block....niiiiiice


this line will retained up on inside rear of tub


The nylon clamps will retain the T and this should provide a nice support and be vibration resistant I'm hoping this will work well for what I'm doing.


Once I get this all wrapped up I'll get more pictures and so forth. I've been really busy with a bunch of other things of late to try and get any work on this machine.

I'm hoping this will be done soon, I've a parade to go to on Dec 05 for Christmas Light up....

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

I'd come in to cook dinner and did and ate and back out...here we are nothing big...but it's done...what a PITA place to work in too

Here we have it...the Low OP sender and OP gauge line installed...whoop whoop.





Now I used the decompression valve and turned over engine so I could get oil flowing...here is fitting not leaking...YET...


Ahh...left the fitting a bit loose allowed air to purge and oil to weep out...


I then cleaned it all off and cranked away again with decomp valve on...spins like MOFO like that...and wow...good oil pressure and immediately too!

So here without decomp cause I can't do three things with two hands at this time..we have a full compression cranking pressure of oil pressure...NICE Eh?


This will surely make for a good informative instrument setup...IDIOT light and Gauge... I'm stoked, now a bit more wiring and I can start to mount the gauges in their holes...

The one thing that came to me is that using the hydraulic hose and a remote fitting like I have I can swap that our install a four port setup and then pump oil to Turbo in the future....ya...I planned that

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Well now I"ve near got it wired and plumbed, I'm holding off on some extra gauges for now but most everything is all tied up with nylon loops.

I've got my grounds for my wiring panel mostly sorted out along with most of the mounting for it as well.

Will attempt to get some pictures tomorrow.

Once my basic wiring is completed I'm back onto the foot feed throttle.

Need locate a nice box for my winch solenoids for front winch. I'll have to get a solenoid setup and control for rear one too but that's a whole new ball of wax.

Damn nice starting to see light at end of tunnel on this portion of project...

Can't wait to drive it again as we have about 6" of snow...for how long who knows...

Thanks for looking

[robeye]

Hey looking good .. .next time I'm through there I'll have to have a closer look... We got the D**m white stuff too early.. wet too.

[riotwarrior]

Hey looking good .. .next time I'm through there I'll have to have a closer look... We got the D**m white stuff too early.. wet too.

Thanks a lot, I appreciate that.

If all goes well and I get my ass in gear...I can go play in snow today...we got near a foot free standing...over that in cumulative last night.

it's wet and heavy and bitch to shovel.

Maybe we can go for a short ride when you come out....

Take care.

[riotwarrior]

Ahhh..Black Friday and wife went last night to the sales in US...Not sure how Thurs is the new FRIday...but WTF..she was gone, out came a lil Capt...

So, with a lil Capt to assist my mood, I got out to shop, took some much needed pictures, and decided fuel tank needs to be physically installed. So I did...

Here is how the wiring and plumbing for the fuel system is routed as of right now, still a bit of cleanup remains but nothing major left essentially. You can see it's all well supported and safe.

This is the left side rear section of the machine...


Right side rear section, need to attend to that fuel pump power wire the green one that's it to clean up IMO




Looking forward on RH side...towards where fuel tank will be mounted shortly. Notice feed/return lines in loop awaiting connection to the tank. I've left enough to add support to the fuel lines at tank with no kinks...I'll show when I do


Now onto the installation of the tank, here from above LH front tyre, that is a steel plate that the carriage bolts sit in without turning...that's hanging there, fresh silicone so it's sealed when I push them through




LH side in the tub...see the tank in place too


this is where I mount the horn..notice a single ground wire and power wire to horn..


once tightened down not much room up in there, the pass or RH side is similar and has a small bracket that holds the glove compartment in place, I'll get some shots of it when I do fuel lines to the tank. I'm giving very serious thought to adding a petcock to the drain bung on my tank, then if needed I can draw a small amount of fuel for a fire or to drain water easily, instead of removing a big 1/2" NPT bung.


Here I've got panel all lit up, pumps all are working all systems a go...nice..that bright RED light is LOW oil pressure warning light. 7lbs I may change that sender to a higher pressure at a later date


I'll be mounting that panel up soon and I'm quite excited at this point to have it coming together...

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Ah, see now Super at ...B I N G O...on Friday eve, so I was out and essentially completed the wiring as far as I can tell.

I even added in the Voltage Regulator and it's respective wiring for charging battery. Some...though little charge is better n none till I can mount a belt driven Alt, that is internally regulated. May go to a nice new 2G I have here instead of a worn out 3G, as both are about same physical size.

So now GP indicator shows RED when heated up, as you see here. This works by turning KEY to LEFT and preheating GP


Here you can see I'm marking wires for VR I use a paint pen to make a permanent tracer on wires. This enables me to write a wiring diagram and have all my colours correct for tracing and so forth later. I've got yellow and brown and red wires so now I've yellow/red tracer brown/white tracer and red/white tracer made up...this is for control of VR and charge light.


Tracer wires...LOL


Here is VR wires prior to it being mounted


look close you'll see the wires have same tracers and colours as above


Here it is, the VRl mounted


And the fuel lines as I chose to route and support them before connecting to the fuel tank.


Electrical control panel mounted


Ahh the TO DO LIST



Clearly I have made a serious dent in the TO DO list.

Some small stuff to take care of like re-install the winch control solenoid box but that's easy, and run wires. but the ones to winch are installed and sealed.

Now this next few days will be a clean up of tub and so forth, then work on foot feed linear throttle. That coupled with a fixed throttle makes for a fine running beast.

Heck I may even go out tonight and do the cleanup, then I can jump on throttle tomorrow afternoon...and winch wiring. WOW but I'm wanting a beer LOL

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Got a few more things wrapped up today, like epoxy on the small crack on fuel tank cap, then I added a new gasket to it as well and finally a valve on the bottom of tank to drain it.

Ahh..closed


and Open


That will make draining fuel for fire or water contaminant much easier I think. Just hope I don't knock it LOL but I'll try and find a better setup, this is what I had and had to make it work.

Then onto foot feed throttle

Pointing to old location, was a real awkward spot to actually make work with a foot. Now up front it should be much better.




I may have to bend the foot portion or reweld it in a slightly different spot for angle/movement..but not hard to do


With a shaft leading to rear, I'll have to make a vertical portion from down in tub and up the side, to connect onto this here. I'll also need extend this shaft some as it's currently a few inches to short. The vertical bell crank portion is what's going to be the most challenging and making sure that the foot pedal movement equates to full movement of IP throttle shaft as well.



I've got the old vertical crank for gasser but it's too short and I need to make NEW mount brackets, thus I'm all over making a new setup somehow. however for now, and the parade, I can if need be fire and run on fixed throttle...thankfully.

Also need some small power wire/speaker wire to make some flashy lights for parade however that will take all of 1/2 hour when I get down to it.

Well nuff for now...

Thanks for looking

[robeye]

Hey that's going good.. Those little diesels are good for 10,000. hours or more if serviced regular. Plus torque out the wazoo. I have the 18 hp 3 cyl in my BX.. it will start in this 18 below.

[riotwarrior]

Thanks Robeye...thanks

Hate to say so but with the proximity of my chains and angles I need to make the bell crank work at for throttle and the fact it's so tight in the tub by the fuel filter / trans cooler pump, I've decided if Super will allow me to I"m going to get the throttle for foot feed Nubs shared in the thumb throttle thread in the Argo section.

Thus for parade fixed throttle and away I go.

All seems to be ok all electrical seems good so far.

Had a small issue with left control cylinder and just promptly rebuild it with new O rings and bled the system. Now works great.

Fired up the machine and it's working very nicely now. I'm quite pleased. The fan on the engine blows enough warm air that when I get my engine cover made I could pipe/duct that air up front if I had a cab, and have a nice warm toasty warm spot. So once I build the engine cover I'll do that next.

Still tons of chain chatter and I see I'm getting quite a bit of flex in trans when I attempt turns so I'll have to brace my mounts somewhat.

Well it should be good for parade and so forth then maybe back under the knife..LOL

Thanks for looking