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  • #76
    Originally posted by Don View Post
    Thanks for the offer, John. If you do happen to find a pipe for the little JLO, I'd be interested (no 440 Tricarts for me, though).
    While I wasn't suggesting a 440 Tricart, that WOULD be sick, just not as much as that Plessinger Tricart Rail or a 503.
    Most of the 440 pipe setups I've seen (not stock) were run as a twin pipe setup, and you could use one of the pipes. Just sleeve the header so you can adjust it, adjustable stinger bolt mod, and maybe other mods (I haven't gotten into expansion chamber mods very much) and you'll be set. Plus since the 440s tend to be quite competative, most of those pipes sound SWEET and are quite aggressive.
    Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
    Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
    Attex Super Chief - Sold.

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    • #77
      Well, I finally got the 'Cart sanded down. I decided to tackle it while the 8 wheeler project is on hold for a little bit. The picture represents about 4 hours of sanding, and about an additional hours of prying off the old fiberglass that someone used to patch up damage to the body/fuel tank that will need to be redone. (horrible surface prep...) It'll have to be repainted after a lot more 'glass work is done, but should turn out well. I hope to save the fuel tank, which is a simple fiberglass compartment incorporated into the body.

      The whole fiberglass body weighs in at a svelt 50lbs even. This ought to be deadly when it's finished.



      ~m
      sigpic

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      • #78
        Mike,

        While you're down to the bare body, you might want to consider coating the interior of the fuel tank with some kind of sealing product that you slosh around in the empty tank. I started to research these, but didn't know about the horror stories until after I had my Tricart was reassembled. I found out that these in-body tanks were notorious leakers prompting SPD to go to a separate tank in the belly. So far so good on my tank, but an ounce of prevention...
        Gas Tank Sealer - Gas Tank Liner - Diesel Tank Sealer - Fiberglass Tank Sealer
        BTW, I have a good color match if you're going to go with the original lime green.
        sigpic
        SPD Tricart X5
        SPD Tricart
        SPD Tricub
        SPD Minicub
        SPD Wedge 295

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        • #79
          1971 Ford Bright Lime!
          Got it!

          I pressure washed the inside of the gas tank quite well, which was an easy task. There's a gaping hole in the top of the body where it looks like a chain or belt flew off and smashed it quite badly. I'm going to have to do a lot of custom 'glass work to acutally BUILD part of the gas tank and body in this area. I have a lot of mat and resin, so I should be able to get it back together. I definitely need to seal the tank up after I'm done, though.

          Do you happen to know the capacity of the in-body 'Cart tanks?

          ~m
          sigpic

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          • #80
            Mike,

            You've been doing your homework on the paint color... i.e. reading the earlier chapters of this thread.

            Regarding the tank capacity, it's supposed to be 3½ gals. I don't know where it all goes, but I've put over 2½ gals in mine with room to spare. The 1st time I panicked and expected to see the belly full of gas with the fuel line off and the valve open, but nope... it was all in the tank.
            sigpic
            SPD Tricart X5
            SPD Tricart
            SPD Tricub
            SPD Minicub
            SPD Wedge 295

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            • #81
              Ethanol and Fiberglass don't play nice

              If these are fiberglass tanks, you need to coat them with something, even if they DON'T leak now. Do a little research on Ethanol blended gas (NOT the E85 stuff, just the 10% Ethanol gas) and fiberglass tanks in boats. (Boats since fiberglass tanks were very common in larger boats.) The Ethanol takes out part of the resin, softening the tank to the point that a screwdriver or similar non-sharpened item can be easily pushed thru and gas will permeate thru and then leak. Worse still, the resin comes out of solution with heat, so in boats it ends up in intake manifolds and on intake valves. More than a few engines wrecked this way. It won't do any less harm to these motors, that stuff will be going thru the bottom end, contaminating bearings and blocking oiling holes, so guys, seal up those tanks. (There ARE some resins that were less affected and not affected, but at least in the marine applications, the vast majority of tanks had to be replaced, my parent's boat included, at a cost of many thousands.)
              All you need to do is clean out the tank, apply sealant to the inside, and you're set.
              Sure beats replacing the tank and motor.
              Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
              Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
              Attex Super Chief - Sold.

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              • #82
                Possible Tri Cart Motor Replacement

                Well, I finally hunted down a motor that fit in the Tri Cart I am refurbishing. 12 HP 4-Stroke.
                Still have some work to do to get er running.
                Lft Rear view.jpgClutch View.jpgBack View.jpgRt Rear view.jpgFront View.jpg

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                • #83
                  It sure looks good.

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                  • #84
                    I wish my 'Cart project wasn't so far down the list of things I need to do. I like how well the engine fits in there and how you're laying out the new subframe for it. I'm going to have to do the same thing, since the subframe, engine plate and jackshaft are missing from mine. That almost looks like NEW secondary clutch. If so, where did you source it?
                    sigpic

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                    • #85
                      HMike,

                      Yes the drive and driven clutches were purchased new at mfrsupply.com. Here's the link to the clutches. Not the cheapest prices but availablity is good. 209418A - Model 44C Magnum Drive Clutch 1" Bore 1/4" key.

                      DKE.

                      6/11/2011 Here's a link to the Tricart's maiden run.
                      Last edited by dkesonset; 06-11-2011, 10:27 PM.

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                      • #86
                        Originally posted by dkesonset View Post
                        Well, I finally hunted down a motor that fit in the Tri Cart I am refurbishing. 12 HP 4-Stroke.
                        Still have some work to do to get er running.
                        [ATTACH=CONFIG]6917[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6918[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6919[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6920[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6921[/ATTACH]
                        What engine is that ? Would like to use for my Tricart. Was it much of a problem to get in ?

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                        • #87
                          Replacement engine in Tricart

                          Hey Teek,
                          The motor is at; Powerhorse OHV Horizontal Engine — 414cc, 1in. dia. x 3 1/3in.L Shaft | Powerhorse Engines | Northern Tool + Equipment.
                          It's back up to $399, but I caught it on sale for $369, and since I have a Northern Tool store 1/2 hr away from me.... no shipping costs. I just picked it up.
                          I had to remove the gas tank, throttle plate, stop/run switch, and the exhaust. Also had to make a new engine mounting frame and drop it as low as it would go w/o hitting the brake rotor, or driven clutch. It barely fit in, but runs crazy fast.
                          Be sure to take; before, during and after pics for us and others to admire and benefit from.

                          Keep in touch with your progress whichever way you go.

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                          • #88
                            Thats another honda clone....here's one cheaper. DuroMax 16 HP Go Kart Log Splitter Gas Power Engine Motor-XP16HPE Electric Start (891784001112) | eBay

                            Lots of upgrade parts for them...you can get 50hp+ if you really want to put that much money into one.

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