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Diesel in a Magnum 8x8

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  • #61
    What a pain in my......!!!! Getting that tranny back together was a test of patience. The only really bad thing was the reverse idler shaft. It comes through the cover, and gets a snap ring. This is all fine and dandy if you can get your secondary clutch off, and input shaft out, so you can tap the idler shaft through the hole. No such luck for me. Had to put the tranny cover on the bearing heater so it would slide on easily. Convenient thing is, if you put the bearings on the shafts first, they slip in pretty nicely. Overall it went well, though it took longer than I wanted, and I burned my finger because there was a hole in the glove.



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    • #62
      Spent some time tonight getting ready to start welding up engine mounts. Found some steel bits laying around the shop, and made a shopping list of stuff I need to pick up. I figured it is going to be possible to do all the mounts with only drilling two holes in the original engine plate. Mounts on non-drive end will be basically to support engine weight and keep it lined up. Mounts on drive end will be designed to hold up to torque and pull from the drive belt. Will be using 2x2x1/8" tubing, and 1x2x1/8" tubing. Should be strong enough. Will cross brace between front mounts and rear mounts wherever I can. I don't want things moving where they shouldn't be.

      A Yanmar will easily fit in there! Though, it's a bit taller than the Kohler, there's more room front, back, and both sides. Strangely, the distance from crank to trans input shaft is the same for the original Kohler to the Yanmar. Weird.





      Even the alternator will fit. Kind of..... Will need that body spacer though. That's ok, I'm sure it will be a good idea.

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      • #63
        Pulled the trigger and bought a new TEAM clutch off eBay. All in (shipping and import fees) just under $300. Don't know that many details on it, but I guess I'll find that out when it gets here. Sometimes you gotta take a chance to get a decent deal. Hope it works out though. From what I understand, these are the same clutches that Polaris uses in some of their machines. Should be able to use springs and weights that are readily available for them, if I require any tuning.

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        • #64
          Nice, hope it works well for you. Let us know how you get it tuned for the diesel.

          Can't wait to see this machine rolling under it's own coal
          MUSCATEER 6x6
          Kubota 14hp 2cyl diesel engine, Hagen/Rooter transmission Comet 780 Drive/770 Driven 22x12x8 Bearclaw tyres
          Soon to add on a ... RHB31 Turbo..guess that would make it a
          MUSCA TUR BOTA then eh?
          94 F350 4x4 7.3 IDI ZF 5sp
          90 Bronco..awaiting a rebuild like no other = Tons and turbo diesel

          Okanagan Similkameen BC Canada
          Al "Camo pants"

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          • #65
            Worked late tonight commissioning a new electroplating line. Had a few hours to kill before heading home. Wife is bartending Oktoberfest tonight. Thought the hitch receiver was the perfect project. Cut my plate (3/8" thick) and drilled six holes. Trimmed 2 1/2" off receiver and welded it to the plate. Bolted up and made some holes in the hitch part for locking pin. Will use this for hitch, as well as for outboard mount. Thought it best to shorten the receiver so there's not so much leverage, and to keep a decent bit of rear clearance.





            Picked up a bunch of steel for engine mounts and such. Ordered sheet metal for fuel tank. Should be here next week sometime. Have to work on odds n ends while I await the clutch.

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            • #66
              Nicely done, very nice indeed.

              As you have a frame to work from that's really cool how you can do that.

              Leads me to think about how I can do something similar with my unit with NO frame...DOH...

              However the tub has be structurally reinforced for this exact reason by yers truly....

              I've got a draw bar on the rear, and was going to add a reciever a bit higher up similar to yours all inclusive of rear winch plate.

              Now seeing this Maybe MAYBE I could put a tab back to my engine/trans frame as well....

              Again very nice and thanks this gave me an idea to solve a dilema in my rig.
              MUSCATEER 6x6
              Kubota 14hp 2cyl diesel engine, Hagen/Rooter transmission Comet 780 Drive/770 Driven 22x12x8 Bearclaw tyres
              Soon to add on a ... RHB31 Turbo..guess that would make it a
              MUSCA TUR BOTA then eh?
              94 F350 4x4 7.3 IDI ZF 5sp
              90 Bronco..awaiting a rebuild like no other = Tons and turbo diesel

              Okanagan Similkameen BC Canada
              Al "Camo pants"

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              • #67
                Has been quite a productive night! Went to the shop about 6:00, worked until 12:30. Got the non drive end mounts finished, and most of the drive end. Can't really "finish" anything until I get the clutch and get a plate made for it. Have to line up the clutches. But, I'll let the pictures tell the story. Fabricating is fun! Haven't done any in a while.













                A grinder and paint will make a welder what he ain't. I'm a touch out of practice with the mig at work. Usually use my arc at home. Mig sure is nice to use though.

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                • #68
                  Nice work. That is a beefy motor mount.

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                  • #69
                    I wanted the drive end to be as strong as possible. Metal and weld are cheap, wilderness repairs, not so much. I like bugging people after their stuff breaks by saying, there's never time to do it right, but there's always time to do it twice.

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                    • #70
                      Clutch came in today. Looks good! There's a goofy part on the engine end that is probably specific for a certain application. Will get the machine shop to trim it off, and bore the inside for whatever we think should be good. Thinking a straight shaft, so I can still put spacer washers on if I need to adjust where the clutch is. Will get to work tonight drawing some stuff up in 3d cad.

                      Also, my fuel tank sheet metal is in. Will be picking that up tomorrow.

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                      • #71
                        Very Cool build. Any idea of the weight when finished? just wondering..
                        1998 Argo Conquest
                        1999 Jeep Wrangler on 35s

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                        • #72
                          I'd say that it should be close to 1300-1400 lbs. Original machine is about 1000, I think.

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                          • #73
                            I'd have guessed more. Do you have a pic of the grease manifold you're running all your lines too? I've got my conquest tire completely down and now would be the time for me to put in a central lube system.
                            1998 Argo Conquest
                            1999 Jeep Wrangler on 35s

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                            • #74
                              I am likely going to just run individual lines and have a nipple for each line. Will be mounted on a flat piece of steel or something. I'm not that far along in pitting it all back together yet. Will likely be another few months until I'm to that point.

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                              • #75
                                Gotcha!
                                1998 Argo Conquest
                                1999 Jeep Wrangler on 35s

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